Dermocosmetic Cream Shows Early Acne Improvement in Skin of Color

Acne vulgaris remains one of the most common dermatologic conditions affecting patients with skin of color (SOC), frequently prompting consultation in dermatology clinics. Although the underlying pathophysiology of acne is generally consistent across skin phototypes, clinical presentation and sequelae differ. Patients with darker skin phototypes (Fitzpatrick IV–VI) are particularly susceptible to post-inflammatory pigmentary changes, most notably acne-induced hyperpigmentation (AIH). Reported prevalence of AIH in this population ranges from approximately 45% to 87%, and for many patients, these pigmentary sequelae are perceived as more concerning than the acne lesions themselves.¹

AIH can persist for months or years after inflammatory lesions resolve and, in some cases, may contribute to permanent scarring if inflammation remains inadequately controlled. These outcomes can significantly affect psychosocial wellbeing and quality of life. Despite growing recognition of acne management considerations in SOC populations, relatively few studies have examined the kinetics of lesion evolution during treatment, particularly when dermocosmetic products are used.² Dermocosmetics are frequently recommended in mild to moderate acne because of their tolerability and supportive role alongside pharmacologic therapies, yet data specific to darker phototypes remain limited.

A recent exploratory clinical study investigated the efficacy kinetics of a multi-targeted dermocosmetic cream in adults with darker skin tones presenting with mild to moderate acne.³ The single-center, randomized, intra-individual split-face trial evaluated changes in acne lesions and AIH over a 57-day period. Sixteen adults with Fitzpatrick phototypes IV to VI participated in the study. Participants had mild to moderate acne based on the Global Acne Evaluation (GEA) scale, with approximately two-thirds classified as mild.

For each participant, one hemiface was randomized to receive the dermocosmetic cream while the opposite hemiface remained untreated as a control. The product was applied twice daily for 57 days following facial cleansing with a neutral cleanser. The formulation contained several active ingredients commonly used in acne management, including salicylic acid, niacinamide, zinc gluconate, Punica granatum pericarp extract, and Aqua Posae Filiformis. Subjects were also instructed to apply sunscreen each morning to minimize ultraviolet-induced pigmentary changes.

Clinical evaluations were conducted frequently throughout the study—daily during the first week, twice weekly for the following 3 weeks, and weekly thereafter. Investigators assessed total acne lesions, inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesion counts, AIH lesion counts, AIH intensity, and post-acne hyperpigmentation index (PAHPI) scores. Local tolerability and patient-reported outcomes were also documented.

The study demonstrated an early onset of improvement in acne lesions on the treated hemiface. Total lesion counts decreased significantly by day 5, with a reduction of approximately 17% from baseline. Continued improvement was observed throughout the study, culminating in a 44.9% reduction in total lesions at day 57. In contrast, the untreated hemiface showed a later onset of improvement, beginning around day 11.

Inflammatory lesions showed a similar pattern. Significant reductions on the treated side were observed beginning at day 11 and continued through day 57, reaching a 42.7% decrease from baseline. Improvements on the untreated side were not statistically significant. Non-inflammatory lesions decreased significantly on the treated hemiface beginning at day 11 and reached a 46.4% reduction by day 57, although differences between treated and untreated sides were not statistically significant for this lesion type.

While the number of AIH lesions did not change significantly during the study, the intensity of hyperpigmentation improved notably on the treated side. A significant reduction in AIH intensity was observed as early as day 11, with progressive improvement reaching a 38.5% reduction by day 57. No comparable improvement occurred on the untreated hemiface. Similarly, PAHPI scores decreased significantly from day 18 onward in the treated area, reflecting overall improvement in hyperpigmentation severity.

Tolerability was favorable throughout the study. Investigator assessments indicated minimal treatment-related irritation, with the majority of participants experiencing no erythema, dryness, or desquamation. Patient-reported symptoms such as itching or burning were uncommon. Participants also reported high satisfaction with the product’s cosmetic properties, with most noting improvements in skin comfort, softness, and overall appearance.

The authors suggest that the combination of multi-targeted ingredients may contribute to both anti-inflammatory effects and pigmentary improvement, addressing 2 major concerns in acne management for patients with SOC. Importantly, the formulation appeared to reduce hyperpigmentation intensity without altering baseline skin tone, a key consideration when treating darker phototypes.

Although the study’s small sample size limits generalizability, the findings highlight the potential role of dermocosmetics as supportive therapy in acne management for patients with skin of color. The rapid onset of lesion improvement and favorable tolerability profile may also enhance treatment adherence—an important factor in long-term acne outcomes.

Further larger, multicenter studies are needed to confirm these preliminary findings and to better characterize the role of dermocosmetic interventions in addressing both acne lesions and pigmentary sequelae in SOC populations.

References

1. Pathmarajah P, Peterknecht E, Cheung K, Elyoussfi S, Muralidharan V, Bewley A. Acne vulgaris in skin of color: a systematic review of the effectiveness and tolerability of current treatments. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2022;15(11):43-68.
2. Auffret N, Leccia MT, Ballanger F, Claudel JP, Dahan S, Dréno B. Acne-induced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: from grading to treatment. Acta Derm Venereol. 2025;105:adv42925. Published 2025 Apr 22. doi:10.2340/actadv.v105.42925
3. Queille-Roussel C, Odeimi J, Broallier M, Kerob D, Tan J. Rapid, strong, and visible efficacy of a dermocosmetic in acne patients With dark skin phototypes: results of a randomized split-face study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2026;25(3):e70737. doi:10.1111/jocd.70737