Stimulating collagen synthesis: New rice extract may hold anti-aging key

Key Points

International report - A new rice extract (Aquarize IS, Vincience) has been shown to stimulate collagen synthesis and, therefore, can be highly useful in antiaging skincare products, a recent study shows.

"We keep searching for new ideas and new methods of extraction of known plants in order to improve the activity of the extracts," says Nouha Domloge, M.D., research director of Vincience's ISP Global Skin Research Center in Sophia Antipolis, France.

For Aquarize IS, she says, "Our studies demonstrate that this extract contains remarkable antiaging molecules that enhance collagen synthesis, as well as other molecules essential for skin structure."

Collagen I and III play a key role in maintaining the skin's structural integrity, as well as in tissue remodeling, wound healing, cell adhesion and cell migration, she says.

Therefore, Dr. Domloge says that restoring the collagen network appears to be a crucial step in antiaging strategies for the skin.

To that end, Vincience tested the activity of its new rice extract on collagen I and III expression in cultured human dermal fibroblasts and in skin biopsies.

Immunoblotting studies conducted on human fibroblasts showed that treatment with a 1 percent concentration of the rice extract for 48 hours enhanced collagen I synthesis by 42 percent. Furthermore, the treatment boosted collagen III synthesis by 110 percent, Dr. Domloge tells Dermatology Times.

Immunostaining experiments on cultured human fibroblasts confirmed the foregoing results. These tests showed increases in collagen I and III synthesis when researchers treated the cells with 1 percent and 3 percent concentrations of the rice extract for 24 and 48 hours, she says.

Similarly, immunostaining of ex vivo human skin treated for 24 and 48 hours with a 1 percent concentration of the rice extract revealed an enhancement of collagen expression in the skin samples versus control skin samples.

"The expected clinical implications of this product would be an antiaging effect, with a decrease in skin wrinkles and improvement of skin morphology and tonicity," Dr. Domloge says.

At press time, Vincience was planning studies to analyze these effects. The studies likely would take place between late 2008 and mid-2009, Dr. Domloge says.

Also pending are results from studies attempting to further quantify the effect of Aquarize IS-induced increases in collagen expression and synthesis.

"We expect to have the results of the studies in a few months," she says, "so we can give an estimation of the improvement to interested clients."

Vincience launched the product in mid-April at In-Cosmetics, Amsterdam. "We expect it to be available in commercial products soon, as we have strong demand for antiaging agents," Dr. Domloge says.

Once the product is on the market, she says, "We expect the enhancement of skin quality to last at least until the time of skin turnover - about a month."

Dr. Domloge says, "Best results of the antiaging active ingredients were seen with twice-daily application."

Accordingly, Vincience advises using the rice extract in both day and night skincare products.