Most skincare innovations happen in the medically dispensed and physician-dispensed lines before those innovations hit the mass market. But that’s not to say there aren’t lower priced options that dermatologists can confidently recommend to patients looking for skincare products backed by science, according to dermatologist Vivian Bucay, M.D., of the Bucay Center for Dermatology and Aesthetics, in San Antonio, Texas.
“One example: People who want hyaluronic acid in their skincare can use products in Neutrogena’s Hydro Boost line, which has some nice products,” Dr. Bucay says.
A pricier and more innovative alternative is Senté, which uses a glycosaminoglycan — a type of hyaluronic acid called heparan sulphate analog. Senté has worldwide exclusive rights to heparan sulphate analog, which has the properties of being a hyaluronic acid and can hold 1,000 times its weight in water, but it also happens to be the one molecule that bathes all living cells.
“It’s so important because it regulates growth factor functions. That’s their hero ingredient. That’s innovative and pricey,” Dr. Bucay says. “But I tell patients that if they’re looking for a hyaluronic acid product, Hydro Boost is a good option. They don’t have to buy the more expensive Chanel or Estee Lauder or other department store brands.”
Olay Regenerist and Olay Pro X lines are lower priced options with proven skincare benefits, according to Dr. Bucay.
“When peptides became a buzz word in early 2000, Strivectin was about $175 a tube and Olay was $10, and they both had licensed the same peptide,” Dr. Bucay says.
A higher priced innovative product from Skinbetter Science features a patented molecule that uses lactic acid and retinoic acid to create a hybrid that’s processed through the skin. It’s a tolerated retinoid that doesn’t tend to cause skin irritation, Dr. Bucay says.
More affordable drug-store alternatives include the Pierre Fabre Avène line, in which the company uses a retinaldehyde, known as RetrinAL.
Dr. Bucay is a La Roche-Posay (L'Oreal) consultant; SkinCeuticals (L'Oreal) speaker; Senté medical advisory board member.
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